Saturday, August 17, 2013

Reef Hook Diving

Palau opened my eyes to a whole new diving experience: Reef Hook Diving. 

Blue Corner is a dive spot on the southwestern end of the outer reef of Palau.  It is a spot where the outer coral reef juts out into the ocean and is world famous for its strong currents and huge schools of fish.  Our group had heard tales of Blue Corner but we were a bit apprehensive about the strong current.  When we tied to the buoy, our dive guide, Neil, warned us the current was pretty strong and instructed us to grab the rope next to the boat and work our way down the buoy line, holding on until we were all ready to go together.  As soon as he gave the pool’s open sign, I was first to back roll in and I was immediately swept away in the wrong direction.  I kicked with all my might and after what seemed like forever I made it to the line on the boat.  Hand over fist along the boat and down the mooring line as the current tried to suck me away.  When we were all together hanging on the line, Neil gave the go sign, we let go all at the same time and flew along the top of the reef.  I have never been in a current that strong, but just going with it was fun; it felt like I was flying!  As we came near the corner we made our way closer to the ledge and found a spot on top to hook in. 
Divers hooked in - notice air bubbles going straight back
The reef hook is simply that, a large hook, about the size of your hand on a 3 or 4 foot line with a large brass clip at the other end.  Before the dive we attach the brass clip to a central location on the front of the BCD and roll up the line and hook and secure them in a pocket.  We find a hole or depression with a lip deep in the reef that is strong and anchor the hook there.  Being careful to keep our fins off the reef we put some air in the BCD and float above the reef looking straight into the current.  In front is a drop off out into the deep blue sea and we just wait with a hurricane force current blasting us in the face.  Be careful, you might lose your mask if you turn your head sideways.  I would hold onto my mask but my regulator would free flow when I looked to the side. 
 
Eventually schools of large ocean fish come cruising by; dogtooth tuna, wahoo, reef sharks, pyramid butterfly fish, triggerfish and many more; all of them swimming along so easily as if there is no current at all.  The sharks would face into the current and hang there without motion as if they too were hooked in.   It was not a steady current so while on the hook you could be yanked up, down, left or right.  Sometimes there would be a strong surge in an already strong current and I just knew my line was going to break any second or my BCD rip and I would go flying over the top of the reef and take out 30 other divers like dominoes.   When I lived in Adak, Alaska we would experience such strong wind storms that you could not walk without holding onto something, you could feel the power of the wind in your face!  This was similar but in water. 
Reef shark just coasting above me
When our time was up Neil motioned us so we would all unhook at the same time and fly together over the top of the reef, on the other side the current was much less but still strong enough that we had to make sure we stayed together as we ascended and did a safety stop in the open water column.  Thank heavens for who ever invented the safety sausage; a long red inflatable pencil shaped balloon that notifies boats there are divers below.  We came up in what I thought was the middle of nowhere but the boat captain saw the safety sausage and was ready with a line off the back of the boat so we would not be swept away while waiting to climb aboard.   Back on the boat we were pumped full of adrenalin and so excited to talk about what we just did.  It was the most exhilarating dive I have ever done.   I wanted to come back and do it again the next day!
The only negative to Blue Corner is that due to its popularity it is a very crowded dive site.  You really have to be careful not to mow into other divers even when they are not always so careful.  To dive Blue Corner you really need to be an advanced diver and have a profession dive guide, so if you have the experience don’t let the thought of the strong current deter you; GO FOR IT!!  IT’S WELL WORTH IT!!
Travel On!